Introduction: Darth Revan Set
This is a tough, but fun project that requires lots of patience, a bit of research and lots of materials, but depending on your level of experience, can result in a beautiful piece of art that can be worn with the costume you make.
The legendary (pun intended as he isn't canon) hero/villain from the star wars old republic age was revered by many, but feared by more. His story begins as a little known jedi that fought in the Mandalorian war. The Republic was not sending troops to interfere in the massacre the highly advanced and power hungry Mandalorians were creating. Revan and his good friend Malak decide to create an uprising within the jedi to stop the threat being posed. They easily crushed their opponents as they had begun to spread themselves thin, and nobody could outsmart either Revan nor Malak. The high jedi counsel cast them both out of the order, and claimed they had fallen to the dark side, which became true shortly thereafter. With the overwhelming number of the Republic's troops having been turned against the very thing they fought for, A civil war began throught the galaxy, and the jedi fought desperately to bring back peace. The jedi order chose a crew of their best jedi and as many elite soldiers as they could spare, and launched an attack against the sith's main ship.The jedi boarded, and Malak, craving power, turned against his master, Revan. Revan gets captured by the jedi, while Malak takes control and begins to create a robot army with a weapon they had found together (imagine the death star but its more square and creates robots instead of laser beams. The jedi wipe revans mind with the force, and create a bond between him and jedi that was sent to capture him and survived, in hopes that he will find the weapon again and destroy it and Malak. Revan destroyed the weapon, but is captured and tortured by Malak using the force, and the methods he used were so powerfull that he split revans dark side and light side into different people and killed him. Both of Revans halves came back as force ghosts, his Dark side still wanting an empire, and his light side determined to stop himself.
slightly confusing with how short I told the story, but It is still awesome. Legend has it that he got his mask from "Mand'alor" or the leader of the Mandalorians when he killed him, so if you want to make a helmet and grind off the front, it would look even better, but because of a lack of time and materials, I did not do that. Also, this would have ended much nicer and sturdier if I had a Mig/Tig welder, but I only have stick for the time being. I am 16 and pay for my own tools, so the tools were all "affordable" instead of "desireable". I would have done this very different with a bit of funding.
Step 1: Collect Materials/plan Tools
This step is incredibly important for this project. It is way too big to skip this step (and I usually end up doing that, so I would know). I bought half of this on amazon, but I like to handle things before I trade money for it, so a lot of this can be bough online.
the mask will require an amount of sheet metal that will be determined using cardboard for simplicity. start by cutting out the mask (with the cardboard) and use as much as you need. make sure it is the size you want (obviously), and then lay it out on a table close together like you are cutting it out. measure the space it takes up, and write it down on a piece of paper that will become your list (electronic is fine). stores like home depot and lowes have an area with various sizes of several metals. enough to fit all of you cardboard models on (round up). now is when you think about how you made the mask. you cut it, did you bend it? did you attach it with something (duct tape, hot glue, etc)? what do you need to acheive this with metal? if you get a thin tin/aluminum sheet, bending wont be a problem, but I use 1/16 inch steel sheet and all I needed was a few pairs of pliers to bend. you will need something to cut the pieces, I would suggest a cnc cutter, or an angle grinder on a budget (thats what I used). how will you attach your pieces together? I am working towards a tig/mig welder because my stick welder just melts my metal. I tried gorilla epoxy and jb qwik weld. I really would suggest a more permanent solution, as neither stuck amazingly well, although JB did a decent job, and I used the weakest epoxy they offer, sacrificing strength for speed. A hot glue gun and a bag of sticks also came in handy. titanium/man made diamond drill bits are also required (for the more exact cuts, and a few holes will be made. lastly, you will need to special order some foam floor mats, grey/silver black and red spray paint, and clear coat spray.
at a store like walmart or target, you will need to grab a few more things. Popsicle sticks, 2-6 yards of black/white fabric (I wear men's medium/large shirts, and I needed 2 1/2 for just the cape and hood. I didn't do robes), red, black and grey acrylic paint, 2-8 plastic clamps and some craft wire. if you dont know how much fabric to get, skip to the step, and do the measurements prior.
Step 2: Making the Cape/hood
sorry for the lack of pictures for this step, they all would have looked like me holding a piece of fabric in front of a sewing machine. I will learn how to take pictures of black fabric later
measure from your neck to the ground from the back, leaving some room. measure shoulder to shoulder, and lay it down on the floor and space it the way you want your cape to be spaced. I got 17" shoulder length, 40" foot length, and 60" height. divide shoulder and foot length by 2 and add it to the other side, rounding up and add 2 inches or 4 cm (17/2, 40/2 = 10, 20 = 30). that number, and the height are the rectangle for your cape (30 by 60). to determine how to cut it, you will take the origional numbers, and divide them by 4 (only add 1 inch or 2cm for this equation, 17/4, 40/4 = 5, 11) and cut this shape out of the side of each, shorter cut and longer cut being on the same sides (refer to the sketch).
for the sash part that is more (for decoration this time, but ussualy is in charge of keeping the cape on your shoulders) is a rectangle measurement based on a shoulderblade to neck measurment by mid chest to mid chest going through about the middle of the first measurment. the bottom is centered and sewn mid shoulderblade facing down on the cape. the opposite end is then pulled up to the neck and similarly sewn (centered and sewn facing down, exposing the seam). then, the excess of the bottom is sewn upward, making a right triangle. the end of said triangle is pulled to meet the end of the previously sewn piece, this being done to the two resulting peaks. the new triangle is made permanent by sewing the side.
the hood is a fairly confusing step, that I will make corrections to what I have done, without being able to test them.
to start, measure from the back of your neck, to the front, going over the head. that is the hight of the rectangle. the length is based on going from your nose around your head, and back again. multiply that number by 1.5 or 2 to add space for your head. cut this new, and sew the length sides. turn it insides out, and it should already function as a hood. you can attach this to your cape at the neck
if you want to go an extra step, you can make robes too. measure your waist, multiply that number by 1.5 and then sew the length sides together. you should have a very baggy skirt, that can be held up with a belt
Step 3: Cutting Peices for the Mask
fairly simple step. take your cardboard cutouts, and outline them on your metal (or measure them and make a program for your cnc cutter). cut the rough peices out. edges dont matter right now, just the shapes. bend whatever you had bent in you cardboard cutout, and if you grinded the metal, make sure you dont have any knifes that need to be bent off with some pliers (I do have a nasty cut from skipping that step lol). look at your cardboard cutout, and think about the best parts to drill holes for some paracord. drill the holes from the peices, and then spray paint the main colors on your peices
Step 4: Attaching the Peices of the Mask
if you have a good welder, paint after welding the peices together. the less fortunate of us will have to improvise
get a dull/expendable knife/edge and heavily score all of the parts where they will be glued. clean as much of the parts as you can with hand sanitizer/alcohol and start gluing the peices together. make two peices, and build on them. do the top and the bottom, and attach them last, as they will be slightly load bearing. remember to clamp each peice and allow time to cure before unclamping (at least half an hour). do some detail painting with your acrylic paint
Step 5: Finishing the Mask
we are getting close to finishing the meat and soul of the project! this is the part where you clean it all up. shave that corner that poked you a lot, round that edge that poked you finger, grind anything that sticks out. this is where you really clean it all up. next, you will need a lens for your mask. used popsicle sticks and a strip of my fabric to hot glue on the mask. some minor paint touches and a few clear coats and that mask is ready for display!
for wearing, you will need some of your foam floor matting, and some spare rope/cord that wont stretch very much (yarn is terrible). tie it in the holes you drilled, and make sure it wont slip (I had to redo the whole mask because it fell from the same height it would from my head. I also made the mistake of drilling last, and had to redo it a third time. please, dont skip steps XD). next, cut your foam out in basic shapes, staking them and hot glueing them into your mask (im open to ideas on different glue btw). you want to put most of the pressure on your cheeks, then forehead, then chin. I added extra memory foam on my cheek supports because mine are a bit sensitive, and I want to be able to wear this mask for long periods of time without bruised cheekbones. you want enough foam so your nose, and anything else, is not touching the metal. metal will get very cold unless is in the sun, so you really dont want to be touching it (but then it would be burning your face, so just dont touch the metal). now is the time to finish the rope supports, since it will be out of the way now. you want one or two that are not going to slide off the top of your head, and one on each side of your head. I used a screw and a 3d printed base I had, and I just tied the bottom two together and had the screw hold them with the base. it can be done just the same by just tying it, but I wanted extra comfort again, so I added foam there (but it pulls the hood back, so is it worth it?). all you need to do is put your head between the mask and the rope, and pull the lower ropes together until they are tight.
the mask should be done now!!!
this is the final step. with this and a black shirt, your good to go!
because of a lack of funding, I had to recycle some letter foam mats and could not do much armor. this is what I was able to do
cut the connecting shapes off the side of your foam, and wrap it around your arm in a way that is tight, but can be slid off your hand. cut, and hot glue to make the shape of an armguard. I used wire to connect the parts that didnt stick well, and then hot glue over them to make it more even. the excess foam can be slid across the hot glue to be pushed into gaps and cracks, and to be more even. peices can also be cut out for chest armor (i would highly suggest doing sith maurader armor). any peices can be spray painted, and do not need a clear coat to be protected.
Step 7: Show It Off
show off you work! this took a lot of hard work, and blood sweat and tears likely went into it (they did for me!). go win costume competitions, and impress people at events such as comicon and other cosplay gatherings! I used a lightsaber I bought from ultrasabers, and I really like their choices. this is a great set that is made to impress. now go and claim your empire mighty sith lord, or bring peace brave jedi, either way, may the force be with you!!!