DIY Resin River Table Using Clear Epoxy Casting Resin and Wood




Introduction: DIY Resin River Table Using Clear Epoxy Casting Resin and Wood

About: GlassCast® resins are the #1 choice for professional furniture makers, artists, contractors and shopfitters needing the very best clear epoxy for creative projects. GlassCast® resins are specially designed for…

Live-Edge Resin River Tables are beautiful pieces of furniture and highly sought after and with the right planning and skills can be created by experienced wood workers and DIY'ers.

We recently published our Penny Floor Project Instructable due to the demand for information on the subject and now we're experiencing high volumes of calls regarding making Resin River Tables. So we're back with a new Instructable on how to create your own Epoxy Live-Edge Resin River Table. For this project we decided to create a coffee table with a central resin 'river' running along it, but we also mitred the sides to create a waterfall effect on both legs. You can adapt the process to create small side tables, large dinner tables and other types of furniture and art pieces.

We've also produced an eBook for in-depth instructions which you can download free of charge here.

Hope you enjoy it and please post any questions/comments ...

Step 1: What You'll Need: Preparation and Materials

The Products and Materials used in the project:

It's very important that the environment you are working in is a dry, heated space with an ambient temperature of around 20°C throughout the process.

The Resin also needs to be at room temperature - so if it's delivered cold or it's been in the garage you will need to raise the temperature to 20°C before use.

Any damp or cold conditions will affect the end result and the room needs to be as dust & dirt free as possible.

Step 2: Choosing and Preparing the Wood

When choosing your wood you need to make sure that the wood is seasoned, dry and as flat as possible.

The style and type of the wood is a personal choice - although interesting grains and waney-edges work best for this type of project.

We cut down and prepared our piece of wood but if you don't have the equipment you can ask your supplier to cut the wood down to the correct size and depth and also ask them to cut it in half if you're going to do a central river channel.

You then need to flip and invert your pieces of wood to create the river channel and remove any bark from the live-edge. This will allow the resin to bond to the solid wood and the finished table will be mechanically strong.

Use a chisel to remove the bark and then rub down with abrasive paper to remove any loose material, then wipe or vacuum any dirt and dust from the wood.

Step 3: Sealing the Wood and Filling the Knots

  • Next you need to check for cracks, knotholes and gaps on both the top and bottom of the pieces of wood and fill these with resin to seal them
  • Use some tape to seal the cracks and gaps to prevent resin running out- a release tape works well for this.
  • Measure and mix a small amount of resin and pour into any gaps - make sure you check on this after a few hours to see if it needs topping up as the wood will probably absorb some of the resin.
  • Overfill the gaps slightly with resin and then leave to cure fully following the instructions.
  • When the resin is fully cured use abrasives to level off the surface, removing any high spots with a sander or with abrasive paper - you are aiming to leave a keyed surface so a coarse abrasive is ideal.
  • TIP when you have thoroughly mixed the resin and hardener, pour the mixture into a second cup and mix again to make sure no unmixed resin remains - this is called 'Double Potting'.
  • The resin we used can be measured by weight at 100:45 resin:hardener or volume at a ratio of 2:1

Step 4: Creating a Container

Now position your slabs of wood and allow for your river channel so you can make a container around the whole table slab - this will support the resin whilst pouring and curing (the river):

  • Begin with a flat sheet - something like mdf or chipboard which is just slightly larger that the slab you will be producing which will make a baseboard to work upon.
  • Next using a suitable product (we used polypropylene sheet as the resin doesn't stick to it) cut a base and side barriers to create a container around the wood. Make the base approximately 8cm larger than the table size to allow for side barriers and battens (if required).
  • Using a hot-melt glue-gun run a bead of glue all around the base and side barrier joins to make sure the container is water-tight.
  • Test it's watertight but make sure you dry the container thoroughly.
  • It's a good idea to use clamps or weights to ensure the planks do not float around in the resin - test this too, to ensure it stays in place and remains as flat as possible. When you're happy remove all the clamps, supports and the wood for the table and you are ready to prepare your resin.
  • You may need some batons to place against the wood and the clamps - we covered ours in flash/release tape so it wouldn't stick to the resin

Step 5: Resin - Measuring, Adding Colour and Pouring

Personal taste will dictate whether or not you choose to tint or colour your resin or leave it clear. Lots of makers are using glow powders, metallic pigments, solid colours and embedding things in their resin rivers and we would recommend thorough testing in a small amount of resin with any effect you want to achieve before attempting your table.

We used a blue translucent tinting pigment in our resin to achieve the watery effect in our table.

The resin we used is the new GlassCast® 50 resin which can be cast to a depth of 25mm in a single pour.

For this project we divided the main river pour into two - and prior to this poured a base/sealing layer.

Measuring & Colouring

  • Following the instructions measure or weigh out the resin - enough for the total project to ensure consistentcy. You can work out the quantity of resin required for your project by using this calculator.
  • Add the colour pigment to the resin - a little goes a long way so add a couple of drops at a time and mix thoroughly.
  • Limit each mix to 5kg and repeat if necessary
  • Then add the correct amount of hardener to the pre-coloured resin and mix thoroughly
  • Then transfer to a second clean bucket and mix again (double potting)

You are now ready to prepare the resin ready for the base / sealing layer.

Step 6: Pour Base Layer and Allow to Reach the B-Stage

We advise pouring a base layer to seal the underside of the wood - this will help to minimise air bubbles during the main pour.

  • Make sure the resin completely covers the whole base area
  • Place the wood planks back into the correct position on top of the resin
  • Using a brush seal the waney-edge and top surface with resin including filling any knots, splits or cracks
  • Position pre-covered wood blocks over the barriers and batons and clamp into position
  • Allow the resin to reach the B-stage of the cure


  • The B-stage means that the resin has started to become firm but still has a tackiness
  • To tell if this stage has been reached - with a gloved finger, touch the resin and if it leaves a mark but does not stick to the glove it has reached it's B-stage and you need to prepare part 1 of the pour
  • If you allow the resin to cure past the B-stage then the resin will not chemically bond to the next layer so will need to be keyed all over with abrasive paper to create a bond with the new layer

Step 7: Pour River Layer 1

Once the B-stage has been reached on the base/sealing layer you need to prepare the resin for Layer 1:

  • Measure out the pre-pigmented resin and measure out and mix in the correct amount of hardener
  • Transfer to a 2nd pot and mix again
  • Pour the resin into the river channel
  • Use a heat-gun to remove any bubbles - the GlassCast 50 will self de-gas but you can speed up the process by using a heat-gun or hairdryer on a medium heat held back from the resin.
  • Then leave Layer 1 to cure to the B-stage

Step 8: Pour River Layer 2

Repeat the stages again for the 2nd main pour once the B-stage has been reached on part 1:

Measure - Mix - Pour - Heat-Gun

If required, repeat the process until the river is full - remembering to double pot the mixes and if pouring multiple layers wait for the B-stage before mixing and pouring the next layer.

Aim to slightly overfill the river channel, then leave the resin to fully cure!

Step 9: Routing & Sanding

To finish the table in the project we used a router set up over the slab on a bridge as we didn't have access to a drum sander or thicknesser and routed the surface all over by making multiple passes.

This gave us a flat, even surface of equal thickness all over and we were then able to sand the surface using a hand-held sander and working through the coarse to smooth grits to achieve a beautiful finish over the wood and resin.

We worked our way through 120, 240, 400, 800 and 1200 grits and made sure all scratches were removed from the previous grit at each stage before progressing to the next one. If this isn't done correctly there will be tiny scratches visible in the final polish and the sanding process will have to be repeated.

You can of course completely avoid this stage if the look you want to achieve is a high-gloss all over which can be done by pouring a coating resin like the GlassCast 3 over the keyed surface.

See our 'How to Polish Epoxy to a Mirror Finish' Instructable for lots more detail and information on the sanding stage.

Step 10: Making and Attaching Sides/Legs

Then we created the sides - you could attach ready made legs like hairpins but we wanted to create a waterfall effect on the sides to add more interest to the piece.

This was done by:

  • Measuring the slab and marking off the 2 sides/legs
  • Mitring the slab using a 45° angle on the saw and bringing together the 2 angles in a 90° angle
  • Repeating the process for the other side/leg
  • Then using a clear epoxy adhesive we bonded the joints
  • To do this we masked off the areas immediately around the joint with flash/release tape to limit any overspill and create a hinge which helped guide the two sides together correctly
  • Then we applied the adhesive to the outside of the joint so that when it was squeezed together it filled the joint evenly and fully
  • Then we supported and clamped the sides into place to support the angle during the cure and left it until fully cured, then removed the tape

Step 11: Polishing

To finish off the table you will need to seal the wood - you can choose the look you want to achieve - we used a clear Danish Oil and rubbed it in using a lint free wipe, then allowed it to soak in and dry.

It's important that you do this prior to polishing the resin river as the polishing compound may mark the wood if it's not protected.

To polish the resin you will need a hand-held polisher and a high quality polishing compound like the Pai Cristal NW1, we applied the compound to the river and used the polisher to achieve a high gloss finish.

See our 'How to Polish Epoxy to a Mirror Finish' Instructable for lots more detail and information on the polishing stage.

Step 12: That's How You Make a Live-Edge Epoxy Resin River Table!

That's how we made our Resin River Table!

You can see from the images that the river is so glossy and the blue pigment looks so water-like.

You can change the appearance of your piece of furniture by using different products like a wax or stain to change the look of the wood and of course you can change the appearance of the river too by using different colours, or embedding objects in the resin pours.

The resin also looked really good after the sanding process with an opaque look, so you could leave it with a matt effect or as we mentioned before you could pour a coating resin over for a full gloss finish on the resin and wood - it really is all about personal taste.

You can also adapt the processes and techniques for lots of different projects using wood - the possibilities are endless!!!

We've got different projects and products with lots more details and technical datasheets over on our website!

Check out our brand new project - Neon Resin Plank Table!

2 People Made This Project!


  • Lamps Challenge

    Lamps Challenge
  • Puzzles Challenge

    Puzzles Challenge
  • CNC and 3D Printing Contest

    CNC and 3D Printing Contest



Question 6 months ago on Step 6

What is the resin and hardner
formula name

GlassCast Resin
GlassCast Resin

Reply 6 months ago

Hi Mohanmadyala, thanks for your question.
In the Instructable we use a product called GlassCast 50 Resin: which is suitable for deeper pours. There are lots of products available - you would just need to look for a deep casting resin suitable for the depth of pour you require. We poured a sealing layer then 2 pours of around 20mm each to get to the required depth. Hope that helps :-)


Question 6 months ago on Step 12

How does the 45° bend to make the 90° and not fully snap? You obviously don't cut all the way through? How close do you cut to make it bendable?

GlassCast Resin
GlassCast Resin

Answer 6 months ago

Thanks for your question, we don't bend the slab, we cut it straight through on a 45° angle to allow the two pieces to be glued together to create a 90° angle.
If you haven't already watched the tutorial it shows the process in detail: Let us know if you have anymore questions :-)


1 year ago

Thanks for this great instruct-able.
I am planning to embed some pebbles in my river - both for effect and to safe on epoxy. Is this a good idea and are there any extra challenges that such additions will add to my river??

GlassCast Resin
GlassCast Resin

Reply 1 year ago

Thanks for your
message. Yes you can certainly use pebbles. We would recommend a
sealing coat of brush applied resin as some pebbles/stones can be porous and if
not sealed may cause issues with bubbles in the resin.
In step 6 of this project we use a base layer to site the planks in, you could use this stage to fix the pebble in place and brush seal all the surfaces. Then when you come to do the main pour(s) the level will build up around the embedded pebbles. Hope that helps :-)


Question 3 years ago

Hi, I made a table and now it is bowing of the one end. I used kiln dried black walnut. Table is a dining size so 3ft x 6ft x 2” thick. I just did the pour all at once. Could this be why it is bowing? I build the cast to fit the project tight and clamp the wood down however a small layer of epoxy goes underneath......some spots are a bit thicker and then when I sand it all down I do not sand the there is epoxy in spots. Table top is smooth and looks great. Do you think that it is my pour that is causing the issue or could it be because I have epoxy on the bottom. I have successfully made coffee tables this way, no issues, however my dining tables bow. Any advice would be great. Thanks


Answer 1 year ago

I like he look of black walnut but it seems to be pretty finicky. One live edge table I built has a natural seam that raised out of the wood after finishing. This was after the wood had dried for over a year. I resanded and refinished and it has done it again but not so bad. I did put a finish coat of polyurethane on even the bottom of the table. I'm not going to do that again. I don't think random spots of epoxy would cause issues but if you coated the entire underside maybe it make moisture issues worse

GlassCast Resin
GlassCast Resin

Answer 3 years ago

Thanks for your enquiry. Bowing can be a difficult issue to solve. The problem being it can be caused by a number of factors, moisture in wood, humidity, temperature of cure etc etc. All play a part and can have an effect at different stages of the cure too. Often all is fine then the heat of the cure dries the wood a bit or as it cools and cures, changes in humidity can play havoc. You can route the surface flat but it depends on having the material thickness to play with. Hope that helps :-)

Claus-Peter Moeller
Claus-Peter Moeller

Question 2 years ago on Step 1

Dear All,

........ a simple question I have, how can I copy the video of this project onto my computer

Claus-Peter Moeller
Claus-Peter Moeller

Reply 2 years ago

Dear Sirs,

Very interesting you products,

Please supply a Price List of your products together with instructions on use of them.

Is there any person at "Glass Cast" to whom I can direct my emails, instead using this form of communication?

Looking forward hearing from you very soon,

Claus-Peter Moeller

GlassCast Resin
GlassCast Resin

Reply 2 years ago

Hi Claus-Peter,
We have a website which is up to date with the complete range available, this site also has a 'Live Chat' button so you can speak to one of the team. Alternatively you can reach us on +44 (0)1782 450300 or by email to if you need any advice, technical help or a quote.
Best wishes,
GlassCast Resin


2 years ago

Estimado, hermoso proyecto , daré unas cuantas lecturas y luego les cuento ...

GlassCast Resin
GlassCast Resin

Reply 2 years ago

Muchas gracias por tus comentarios :-)


Question 2 years ago

You need to overpour on the last layer which would get the blue resin on the 'riverbanks'. How do you then get it off so the blue is only in the river?

GlassCast Resin
GlassCast Resin

Answer 2 years ago

You could put the whole slab through a thicknesser or use a drum sander if you have access to the equipment. We didn't so set up a router over the slab on a bridge as we and routed the surface all over by making multiple passes.
This gave us a flat, even surface of equal thickness all over and we were then able to sand the surface using a hand-held sander and working through the coarse to smooth grits to achieve a beautiful finish over the wood and resin.


Question 2 years ago on Introduction

Hello and thank you for the nice tutorial. I have been researching to create a partial resin table, and I am concerned about the epoxy yellowing. I understand even if it is kept out of sunlight, it will still eventually yellow somewhere down the road. By mixing the resin with a color (like your blue) does it slow down or stop this process?

Thank you,


GlassCast Resin
GlassCast Resin

Reply 2 years ago

Hi Kristy, thanks for your message and comments.
All epoxies will yellow over time, however GlassCast Resin uses an industry leading UV resistant formulation and as you say keeping it out of direct sunlight will extend the life. Adding a pigment to the resin can help to mask any yellowing down the line.
The pigment where yellowing can be noticeable is white, but if you are tinting to give a translucent effect then this would not be a problem :-)


Question 3 years ago on Introduction

I am creating a table with Alaskan yellow Cedar and we want to take the company logo made of vinyl and lay it in the center of the table and then cover it with the epoxy resin do you see any problems with the resin sticking to the vinyl or the vinyl having issues with the epoxy? If the vinyl will not work is there another material you would recommend to get a logo on the center of a wood table?